24 June 2026
28 June 2026
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scored 5 more galaxy black granite slabs off craigslist w/ bullnose on 3 sides. and cut it into 20 linear of granite window sills.
I spray the saw down w/ wd40 before I cut then make my cuts then hose it off, then air compressor until dry then set it in the sun. I use two stripes of blue tape about 1/8" apart and keep the water flow rate enough so I can see what I'm doing at the blade. the hay bale isolates the granite so it absorbs vibration well and allows cut depth. I go about 3/4 across then come back from the other side to finish to prevent breakout
ppe: gfci, bandana, N95, ski goggles, and ear protection are all a must.
7 July 2026
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We cut some more lumber up recently by having a guy with a mobile saw mill come and help. Scroll to the bottom to see the video. We paid him for his time and the saw mill and we did the labor of loading the logs and stacking the rough cut lumber. So far, we have tens of thousands of dollars of rough cut pine and Cyprus lumber stacked up for future building projects and about $800 in total cost to have this person cut it up for us. This time around, we only cut Cyprus and you can see we have a lot left still.
If you missed our video on this last time, you can see how it all worked here👇
https://youtu.be/TiglC8O1xpg
470 · Purpose Driven HomesteadWe cut some more lumber up recently by having a guy with a mobile saw mill come and help. Scroll to the bottom to see the video. We paid him for his time and the saw mill and we did the labor of loading the logs and stacking the rough cut lumber. So far, we have tens of thousands of dollars of rough
Sounds like an awesome deal, and that is a nice stack of lumber too. Did he cut to current lumber size or traditional like the Amish do?
Havok HavokSounds like an awesome deal, and that is a nice stack of lumber too. Did he cut to current lumber size or traditional like the Amish do?
Rough cut... so a 2x4 is a true 2x4 vs the 1.5"x3.5" version in the store. We dont have any Amish around us, so I can't speak to their process specifically
Purpose Driven HomesteadRough cut... so a 2x4 is a true 2x4 vs the 1.5"x3.5" version in the store. We dont have any Amish around us, so I can't speak to their process specifically
That is what they do as well. It's nice and I personally think it's the proper way to do this, but man when you go to buy hangers or straps, not much out there that supports actual size lumber. Kind of have to bend them into shape or find somewhere that makes true to size stuff.
10 July 2026
Havok HavokThat is what they do as well. It's nice and I personally think it's the proper way to do this, but man when you go to buy hangers or straps, not much out there that supports actual size lumber. Kind of have to bend them into shape or find somewhere that makes true to size stuff.
At one time I built with rough cut quite a bit. The easy way to deal with it is get good at using a router and keep one at the job site. A three-quarter inch router set at half inch depth, or alternatively set at quarter inch depth and shaved on both sides instantly shapes rough cut into joist hanger dimensions. For joist hangers it’s only the thickness of the joist that is affected, so you still get all of the strength of the extra half an inch in the cord of the board
11 July 2026
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Cyprus is an incredible valuable wood! Water and bug resistant, silver in color when aged, hard to come by. Bravo!
15 July 2026
17 August 2026
18 August 2026
Baby Boomer 37CA long underground pipe to bring cool air in. It will also condense water for use.
Can you tell me more about how it condenses water?
The ideas I saw were simple, pipe... I don't know how big about 100ft long under ground. This might be doable,
I'm not sure how collecting water would be.
I guess it could double as a drain.. we have that type of a drain in our current basement.
Baby Boomer 37CNot a drain. The warm air will give up water to the cooler underground pipe wall.
Condensation will run downhill. So you want a slope to your water collection point. Your air entry point needs to be protected, you don't want trash or critters to come in.
Any idea how big the pipe should be?
I believe the term for what you’re discussing is earth tubes. A search on that may yield some information, but basically the idea is to put a 4 inch or 6 inch tube buried underground. There is probably a calculation to determine how many feet you need based upon cubic feet of area to be cooled.
I have heard of these earth tubes being put above a leach field. That way you don’t have a separate excavation. I have also heard of them being put in with a Ditch Witch trencher about 2 feet deep. If you’re using 4 inch pipe that might work. 6 inch would be too big for most trenchers.
Basically you’re using the Earth for a heat exchanger. Down about 2 feet or more. The Earth temperature is a pretty regular 54°. BTW, there is a kind of flexible corrugated direct burial pipe that is best for this. It’s black and corrugated.
I am an ex building Contractor, but I have never done this myself. I have known people that have and it’s worked out well.
BTW, if you happen to be using a lot of irrigation water on a regular basis, you can put up a radiator and a fan and run all the irrigation water through it before it goes on the field. I know someone in Missoula Montana that did that and it worked out great. Much better than a swamp cooler because it doesn’t make things humid.