Tadi Channel

There's something I wanted to say for a long time regarding PWM sensitivity. I'm largely agnostic about this topic, but at the same time, everything wrong with display output is close to my heart and I can surely list at least one source of flicker that's outside of widely discussed characteristics of PWM itself. If you ever looked at an OLED in the dark, you might've visually noticed a flicker at the moment of refresh rate switch, whenever you leave the screen idle for a second. Sometimes it's minimal, sometimes it's dramatic. OEMs are aware of their existence, but their solutions to this problem tend to be merely a bandaid. Whenever the brightness drops below 30~50%, they tend to force a constant refresh rate on you. There is another way. Something the people with cameras recording displays at short exposure time are so close to discovering, and yet I'm yet to see it mentioned even once. Keep the main refresh pulse (the one you'll always see even at max brightness, even with DC dimming on) unchanged through refresh rate changes. That's it, I'd want to end this post here. Obviously, the difficulty of implementing that may vary between display controllers, and who knows, maybe some of them would have to be fed with duplicate frames. Regardless, the reason of on-switch flicker is a physical change that follows the commands asking for it. The Tearing Effect pulse is what we're talking about in particular. From driver's standpoint, it makes some sense to reduce their count, but physically, on an OLED, the only solid way to make the panel look constant is to also keep these pulses constant too. Mi 17 has a setting that increases their count from up to 120 to up to 360 per second. Yes, "up to", it sucks. They had the greatest opportunity of keeping the panel look constant, such a config would allow switching seamlessly even between 120Hz and 90Hz modes, and yet the RR changes are evident in lowlight and to camera. If done right, their hardware would allow them to co